Sunday, September 15, 2013

Three Days on the Western Way

The Western Way is a long linear path in the western part of Ireland and would take a couple of weeks to complete. We chose a small section the ended with the climb up Croagh Patrick. The night before we began we spent the night at a Farmhouse B&B which was very nice and quiet and we were fed well. We arose to rain, but knew we had to set off as we had around 25km to travel. It rained and and the wind was stout at times, but we made it. Not all the small streams had bridges and they were too wide to jump across so our feet became wet early on. We nearly got lost on the mountain when the fogs/low clouds came in and the path was rocky, but somehow found our way. Around one in the afternoon we rang out our socks, but we were soon on a very wet boggy path soaking up more water. So around three we rang our socks out again. Just after five we arrived at our hostel, if you can call it that. The room smelled horrible and the water was non-drinkable. We had little food and could not shower so the best we could do was go to bed and get going in the morning.

Most people think Friday's that fall on the 13th are bad, but it was a great day for us. We woke around seven and packed our bags. Some of our things were still wet from the day before especially our shoes so we wore our sandals. We set off and the sun was peaking  through the clouds. Before we reached the main road a French lady came by in her little camper and asked if we wanted a ride. We did want a ride to next village 6km away so that we could get some breakfast and coffee, and some water and food for the day. It was a very small village, but had a hotel that was serving breakfast and it would cost ten euro each. It was our only choice so we ate a full breakfast and coffee, sneaked two slices of bread and two pieces bacon (what they call bacon, we would call country ham) into our pack and paid. But when she brought our change she said it would only be seven and a half euro each. I suppose we looked a bit rough as we hadn't bathed for a couple of days and had only a can of soup for dinner the night before and she had pity on us. At the small store we picked up a pack of cookies. We were off, but undecided on which path as we had on our sandals and feared getting into the bogs agains so in the end chose the road. We walked along a beautiful fjord and then turned towards some mountains hoping for a ride to our turn and got one about 3km before our turn. Although short, we were thankful as when they let us out and we turned north the sign said 20km to our destination. We started up small country road and then stopped to eat our bread and bacon and some cookies and we off again. We hadn't gone far and got a ride. A German girl that had been working in Dublin for many years and she took us to within a half a kilometer of our B&B. 

Our hostess wasn't home when we arrived so we sat out front and took in the sun. She did arrive home an hour later, but had forgotten to put us in her book, but she had room. When she found out we lived near Charlotte, she was excited as her son is currently living there. She fixed us tea and scones to enjoy after we bathed and did our laundry. She fixed a delicious dinner as well and we were off to bed. We ate a big breakfast and then Marian drove us to our starting point for the day. We look forward to seeing Marian again when comes to visit her son.

Today was our climb up Croagh Patrick and the weather was perfect. Most start in the car park and do an out and back, but started on the south side of the mountain. It becomes very rocky and steep. They don't have switchbacks so it is straight up the mountain. At times I was almost crawling and the full pack was a added burden. Once at the top you can see for many miles in all directions. There were many climbing today, but hard to tell how many made it. The walk down is just as hard and we missed our turn and ended at the car park with everyone else. On we walked, but did get about a 5km ride into Westport where we have a private room at a hostel. 

In the common area someone overheard us talking about taking a bus to Athlone tomorrow and has offered us a ride. That will save us a few euro!

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